Lets get lost in the world together: Carnivore

Kenya is certainly not for the weak. Since I have been here I have had my clothes, food and shampoo stolen. I’m also currently battling a fungal infection, along with the mosquitos. I am pleased to report two separate malaria tests have come back negative. It’s funny, doing something like this has always been a dream of mine. Never did I have a romanticized idea of what this experience would be like, but, I certainly didn’t think it would be such a rollercoaster. I am well pass the two month mark of living in Kenya and FINALLY I am starting to feel like Tabaka is becoming home. Recently, I took a few days off of work to get away. Leaving couldn’t have come at a better time because I think being away for a few days has made me realize that despite its downfalls I actually really do like this village and hospital.

Last week I went to Nairobi for a couple of days to meet up with my friend Alice (a Burundian living in Kenya), and another CMMB volunteer, Eric. Eric is a nurse from California who is placed in Mutomo Kenya. Even though Eric and I only met each other once at orientation, our reunion felt like I was seeing a long lost friend. I didn’t realize how much I would enjoy talking to someone who could speak fluent English, let alone is experiencing exactly what I am experiencing. It was so great to compare our hospitals, and exchange stories. Together we went to Nairobi National Park. It’s not your ideal safari, but, I still had fun. Something about seeing an ostrich run around with a background of skyscrapers doesn’t seem right. We also went to Bomas of Kenya, a cultural museum that showcases traditional tribal dances, and, the Elephant Orphanage, one of my favorite places in Kenya. I also dragged him all around Nairobi to go to a market accompanied by multiple matutu rides. I love the thrill of bartering for items and experiencing Kenya from a local’s point of view.

Elephant Orphanage

Eric and I at "1st wifes hut". What a player.

Nairobi National Park

Bomas of Kenya. How is it I'm always the

one picked out of the audience?

The ten pounds that I have lost since arrival is coming back with vengeance after this trip. So much eating!!! My favorite place we ate at was called Carnivore. Carnivore has been labeled one of the best 50 restaurants in the world. All I can really say is the name certainly matches the menu. Carnivore has a set menu offering everything from chicken and lamb, to ostrich and ox testicle. I can now officially say I have abandoned my vegetarian ways. 2.5 years down the drain.

Finally, we went to a Nakumatt (Kenya’s version of Walmart). After living in a village for two plus months seeing the Nakumatt in Nairobi was reverse culture shock. Full of cheese, white girl shampoo, and Nutella… you can get anything you want there. If I let myself I could have spent hours in the store looking in awe at the items. In my village we have none of this, I’m lucky if I can get something other than starch for a meal. Nairobi is full of consumerism, just like America. Before leaving I stocked up on apples, Nutella and chocolate, that’s a well-balanced diet right? Alice, Eric and I finished our day off by demolishing two large pizzas (with cheese) and ice-cream. It’s actually quite vulgar how much I ate.

Alice and I at Carnivore.

2.5 years ruined

Carnivore. Yummy!

Although I joke, being in Nairobi really was a reverse culture shock. I live in village were daily activities are centered around fetching water, carving soap stone, planting and cultivating crops. People’s daily lives are dedicated to survival. To put it into perspective, people are often so poor they only have one pair of shoes, which is meant strictly for church. It’s amazing the gap between the rich and the poor. In Nairobi you can get anything you want, while in Tabaka people are currently stocking up on food because they know within a short few months there will be the annual food shortage they have grown accustom to.

Like I said, going to Nairobi was a really good for me. It was good to be able to leave, regroup, think and reflect on my work. Sometimes I get so down because I feel like I’m constantly fighting. Fighting ignorance, and fighting the situation. Never have I walked away from work completely content with my day. I always feel like more could have been done. It’s draining to be fully aware that if people were better educated, resources were accessible, and money was not an issue the outcome of many of my patients may be different. Being away from it for a few days really made me reflect on the fact I do love these people, I do love my work, and I am here to help in any way I can. I can’t lose enthusiasm.

It’s also about time to clear up some misconceptions about where I am living. I have gotten so many questions pertaining to my living environment. I forget that people often think of Africa in its entirety and what they see on Animal Planet.

First things first, I live in Kenya. When people say I live in Africa remember Africa is a continent not a country. You can’t generalize where I live… shoot, you can’t even generalize Kenya, it’s literally a melting pot of culture. Contrary to what people think I do not live in the desert, nor do I live in a mud hut. However, many people do live in mud houses with iron sheet roofs. I live in a compound within the hospital grounds, within the village of Tabaka. We have one “road” (a rocky muddy path) going to and from my village. My living conditions are actually very nice, however, the electricity often goes in and out, leaving me eating many dinners in the dark. I do not have lions in backyard, but, I have seen the occasional zebra or two while driving from Nairobi to Tabaka (Masai Land). My village is in the hills so we get a lot of rain. Rainfall is good because we have a lot of food compared to other places in Kenya. But with rain comes mosquitos, making malaria very common in this region.

Most people are very poor, but, this area is blessed with a good climate to grow food. Avocados and mangos are abundant. Also, this area is blessed with an abundance of soap stone. The locals use it to make carvings which produce a great deal of income. However, people still struggle to eat, and pay school fees. When we don’t get rain people often walk miles for the next source of water. Unfortunately, I have experienced the effects of drought once since I have been here. Never before have I valued water so much. You don’t realize how much water you use until you don’t have any. Tabaka itself is a very safe village. The only thing you need to watch out for is the driving and the locally brewed spirit (alcohol). I hear it’s very potent and often deadly. I stick to Tusker (a Kenyan beer) when I drink. Although, I feel very safe within the village, when traveling to other parts of the country the presence of al-Shabaab is lurking in the back of my mind.

Tabaka, look how green.

The road.

Home. The building I live in.

We also have many tribes where I live, the predominate tribe is the Kisii tribe. Kisiis are a very interesting group of people with an interesting set of values. They are very friendly and sociable. They can often be seen late at night standing around on the side of the road talking to each other… about absolutely nothing! Their tribal traditions include circumcision for both male and female (female circumcision is not legal in Kenya), polygamy, and some of them (not all) practice witch craft. Their “mother tongue” is Kisii which is surprisingly very different from Kiswahili. We also have another less predominate tribe near this region called the Masai. I LOVE this tribe. They are one of the few tribes that visibly stick to their traditional values and customs. They often come into the hospital with very elaborate dress and jewelry. They gauge their ears to the point where their earlobes often touch their shoulders. Known for being rich and owning many cows, at the hospital when they talk about payment, they often talk in terms of cows. How many cows will I need to sell to pay for this hospitalization? I am an expert on the going rate for a cow around here.

I have a feeling I’m not in Maryland anymore.